Reptile Specialists - Tucson, Arizona

Corn Snakes

Latin Name - Pantherophis guttata guttata

General Information: The corn snake is one of the most versatile reptiles in the United States. It is found as far north as New Jersey, as far south as the Florida Keys, and as far west as Texas. They are found in forested areas from sea level up to 6,000 feet. They grow to be 3 to 5 feet long, males generally being larger than females, contrary to most other snake species.

Corn Snakes as Pets: Corn snakes are very easily maintained and make wonderful first reptiles. The cage can be spot cleaned once a week (which is about as often as they make messes) and is a very simple schedule for families or children to follow. They are very hardy and generally extremely docile when kept as pets. Their friendly disposition and smaller size appeals to the beginning snake keeper and the many interesting genetic morphs combined with easy breeding appeals to many advanced keepers as well. Their inquisitive nature and delightful array of colors makes them a thoroughly enjoyable addition to any household.

Housing and Habitat: When housing a baby corn snake, a ten gallon is plenty of room. Adults will ultimately need a 20 to 40 gallon terrarium. Whatever size terrarium you choose, it is important to remember that corn snakes have a very inquisitive nature and will escape quite easily if not housed in a locking cage. They like a cozy place to hide while digesting food and a nice climbing branch to explore. They are also good swimmers and some corn snakes seem to enjoy a large water dish very much.

Substrate: Corn snakes come from such a variety of areas, there are many appropriate substrate choices. Cypress mulch, Reptibark, Eco Earth, Carefresh (compressed paper), aspen shavings, pine shavings, or cage carpeting are all excellent choices. Reptibark is one of our personal favorites. Corncob, crushed walnut, cedar, and sand are all beddings that should never be used with corn snakes.

Heating: Corn snakes need a hot spot of about 86-90°F. The ambient temperature should be in the mid 70s to low 80s. They can get down to the lower 70s at night but babies should not get below 75°F as they can have problems with regurgitating when it is too cold. They do not require any other special lighting. For more about heating and lighting visit our Heating and Lighting FAQ page.

Feeding: Baby corn snakes should always be fed once a week and this schedule can last throughout the life of the snake. They start off eating pinkies, after a few months they will eat fuzzies, and eventually will eat adult mice. On rare occasions, a corn snake will grow big enough to eat small rats but this is above average and a couple mice would suffice just as well for such large specimens. As with most reptiles, it is always a good idea to feed corn snakes outside of the terrarium they live in. They should also never be fed together. A large plastic kritter keeper works well or a Tupperware with a couple holes drilled in the top. This will prevent the snake from developing any kind of feeding reaction and should prevent biting from happening. Corn snakes are usually very hardy, excellent feeders and they will usually eat what is offered to them but it should also be noted never to leave a live feeder rodent in the container with your snake for very long. If your snake hasn’t been eaten within 30 minutes, it is most likely not going to. Rodents, who will also become hungry after awhile, will begin to chew on the snake if left alone for hours. Snakes who aren't hungry usually won't fight back and many snakes have been heavily injured or killed by rats and mice that have been left in their cages for food.  

Sexing: Sex can be determined by comparing the tails of male and female snakes. It is sometimes hard to tell if you are not used to what to look for, so always feel free to bring your snake in if you have any questions. If you want to know for sure, we can also probe it for you. The tail on a male corn snake will remain about as thick as the body a little ways past the cloaca (anal opening), tapering slowly. It is also usually longer than that of a female. On the other hand, females have tails that taper quickly. They are shorter, and thinner, and tend to taper immediately following the cloaca.

Breeding: Breeding Corn Snakes is generally very simple. Often they don't need much encouragement, if any at all. They prefer a slight drop in temperature during winter to kick in their cycle, which can simply mean switching to a lower watt heat source or, like at the store, sometimes the slight drop in household temperature is enough. Corn snakes will usually start breeding in late winter to early spring. The males may stop eating all together or slow down on their feeding schedules and become very active. You will probably see swift movements around the cage as they chase the females. During this time, it is important to make sure the female gets plenty to eat. She will probably lose a lot of weight during her pregnancy so it is important to feed her heavily during breeding season. Once breeding has occurred, a nesting box should be placed in the terrarium to give the female a place to bury their eggs. Gestation usually takes 30-35 days. We usually use a plastic shoe box with a hole cut in the lid and several inches (4 or 5) of moist substrate inside. EcoEarth works very well for egg laying and for incubation (it's our favorite) but anything that will hold moisture well without molding will work also. If you would like something more aesthetic, there are other options as well. Both the male and the female may spend time inside the nesting box in the weeks before she lays the eggs. Do not be concerned though, as the males will generally leave the females alone once it is time. She will lay anywhere from 5-24 eggs. Around 10-20 is average.

Incubation: After the eggs are laid, it is important to remove them immediately and begin incubating. You can use the same type of container for incubation but it should be less ventilated to keep the humidity in. You should place about an inch of moist substrate in the bottom and make a small indentation with your finger for each egg. If they are stuck together, pick up the whole bunch and transfer them without taking them apart. Make sure you do not change the orientation of the eggs at all. If they are turned, the embryo inside can suffocate. Some breeders mark the top side of all the eggs with a pencil or marker before attempting to move them so that if one happens to get turned over, it can immediately be placed with the right side up again. They can incubate at anywhere from 76-86 degrees F. 80-84 is an ideal range as too hot or too cold can sometimes cause the hatchlings to develop problems in development.

Hatchlings: Approximately 8-10 weeks after the eggs are laid baby Corn Snakes will begin to slice through the egg with a specialized scale called an "egg tooth". Once the baby snakes emerge from their eggs they should be placed in a terrarium with moist paper towels and a water dish and left alone for about a week until they shed for the first time. After their first shed they can be offered a pinkie mouse and cared for as you would any other baby Corn Snake.